woensdag 26 januari 2011
GIVENCHY PSYCHEDELIC ACID LOBESTERS HAUTE COUTURE SS 11
Psychedelic acid lobsters on ivory gowns; pagan headgears and references ranging from South-American idols to Japanese robots and dances (Butoh especially); embroidered swans as the ultimate symbol of the Apollonian poet… It is with this collection more than any other that Tisci shows how he diverted from his past aesthetic, mostly evoking ages of darkness, the tumults of Christianity and, generally, a more Dionysian approach. The extraordinary skeletal bird-motifs are layered both in vivid pastel colours and in multiple hues of white. Sheerness emphasizes the beauty of the -robotic- movement of these delicate origamis, adorned by hundreds and hundreds of precious details. Thus the woman can metamorphose into a swan or a solar deity, going back to her status of muse of the poet. Alexander McQueen has already brought birds (almost obsessively) as the uncanny inspiration for many collections, but Tisci has found a new territory with the light and serene beauty expressed by his creations. All in all a display of poetic virtuosity and an ode to beauty.